11 March 2010

From stage to page: behind the scenes at Harper’s Bazaar

It was very cool indeed to receive a media call sheet from fashion bible Harper’s Bazaar in my pigeonhole at the Sydney Opera House one morning. Not knowing what to expect, apart from instruction to bring flesh-coloured pointe shoes, and, for the gents, a jock strap, twelve of us dancers plus Li Cunxin were piled into cars and driven out to Scheyville National Park, about an hour north of the Sydney CBD.

We were to be shot for an exclusive pictorial spread, inspired by Disney fairy tales such as Snow White and Beauty and the Beast. The story we were to help realise was Cinderella (or Sin-derella, as it transpired), in which Li was our Prince Charming, as a prominent Australian was to feature in each fairy tale. A different fashion designer was assigned to create a look for each tale, and Kit Willow dressed the beautiful Danielle Rowe in an ethereal draped wisp of a dress, with outrageous knee-high platform boots covered in red glitter, as her vision of Cinderella. Li was dressed simply in a top and pants by Rick Owens. Us ladies were dressed in our white Suite en blanc tutus, with turbans in the same nude diaphanous fabric used for Danielle’s dress and bare legs, while the gentlemen … well, I’ll get to that in a minute. Read the rest of this entry »

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2 March 2010

Ballet V Alpha60

Boutique street label Alpha60 have built a cult following with their wry, witty T-shirts. The brother-sister duo mine the 20th century for influences which figure both directly (patron saint Jean-Luc Goddard presides over their growing empire) and indirectly in their collections. Ballet was bound to make a cameo sooner or later.

These photographs from Alex and Georgie Cleary’s Fitzroy studio find them hard at work on – what else? – a T-shirt for The Australian Ballet Shop. The limited-edition run of 100 (each with a hand-numbered swing tag) is technically Alex’s second foray into ballet – he worked for the company’s merchandise department in the very early days of Alpha60. “We are really pleased to have been asked to do something for The Australian Ballet,” he says. “We love what the ballet does and we were excited to put an Alpha spin to it.”

The T is classic Alpha60 – monochrome, unisex, irreverent. Four businessmen – staid and  bespectacled – stalk a Parisian avenue, but one sports a tutu and pointe shoes along with his briefcase. “We really wanted to create an image that put the ballet in a different environment,” says Alex. “I love the contrast between the serious suits and the pointe shoes – the expressions on their faces look like they are in on the joke and trying not to show it.”

The Ballet V Alpha60 T-shirt is available exclusively through The Australian Ballet Shop

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19 February 2010

Michael Clark, Nijinsky with a mohawk

“Bodymap,” dancer and choreographer Michael Clark says, “is trying to do the same kind of thing I’m trying to do with classical ballet, but with design – taking very basic design and trying to look at it in a different way.” FOLLOW ME Magazine, August 1987.

Classical ballet was in for a shock when the baby-faced “Nijinsky with a Mohawk” Michael Clark, the enfant terrible of ballet, collaborated with David Holah and Stevie Stewart, designers of Central Saint Martin’s most forward-thinking label Bodymap.

In the 1980s, ballet was gripped at the throat by the anarchic youth culture of sex, fashion and performance art. It wasn’t just the look of the dancers that changed but the feel and sound of ballet as well. Clark enlisted the help of avant-garde performance artist Leigh Bowery and live music by post-punk groups in the London scene:  Wire, The Fall and Laibach.

In Clark’s large-scale production No Fire Escape in Hell (1986) dancers wore hand-printed, buttock-baring unitards with batwing sleeves and strapped-on rubber appendages from sex shops. Leigh Bowery – a magnificent sight in ten-inch heels – wielded a chainsaw.

Ballet once again had influence on the catwalk. Clark regularly performed at Bodymap and Vivienne Westwood fashion shows, and in film clips. In Scritti Politti’s clip for ‘Wood Beez (Pray like Aretha Franklin) 1985’, Clark performs clad head-to-toe in Bodymap. Youth culture penetrated ballet and it never looked so good.

Michael Clark pushes the boundaries of ballet to this day; the collaborators have changed, the music is different, but the spirit of style, design and anarchy live on.

Mia Veur is a freelance womenswear buyer and stylist

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16 February 2010

Vale Alexander McQueen

Sylvie Guillem recently starred in a production called Eonnagata for Sadler’s Wells, dressed entirely by Alexander McQueen. Teaming up with the renegade ballerina was something new for the maverick designer. He was, of course, no stranger to histrionic design, but had never developed costumes for the theatre. McQueen’s creations for Eonnagata were true to his aesthetic; all billowing tulle, structured bustles, and oversized crimson fans – in short, a diaphanous visual feast.

McQueen studied fashion at the iconic Central St. Martins in London, then the art of tailoring through apprenticeships on Saville Row, where he whittled his pattern-cutting technique down to perfection; all this to abandon fashion’s rules and limitations. In throwing off the conventions he created some of the most sensational clothes of the early 21st century. Much like Madame Guillem herself, who studied the purest of classical ballet techniques in order to relinquish them, McQueen’s fantastical and rebellious imagination flourished precisely because he understood the beauty of a flawless cut.

McQueen defied numerous fashion luminaries to earn himself the title l’enfant terrible. His runway shows were escapist spectacles. He would often hold performances in abandoned London locations in the middle of cold winter nights. His most recent production, his last, unveiled those shoes. Dubbed the ‘Armadillos’, the alien hoof-like constructions were made famous by one prancing and dancing Lady Gaga in the Bad Romance film clip.

As the Alexander McQueen online store sells out of his most famed creations, a ring adorned in delicate enamel flowers and a single dark skull evokes his aesthetic better than any other piece – a testament of his struggle to acknowledge beauty yet defy it.

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15 January 2010

When ballet stepped into the sun


When the Ballets Russes boarded Le Train Bleu (The Blue Train) in 1924, the quintessentially modern Coco Chanel was the perfect choice as costumier. Her simple, spirited designs provided a carefree invocation of seaside, active chic at a time when sportswear was a relatively new category of clothing. Le Train’s cast of wayfaring sporting champions (including a golfer inspired by the Princes of Wales) and ladies of leisure spun a seaside pantomime out of a gymnastic-classical ballet tightrope.  Their costumes – black tank bathing tops, striped wool jerseys, culottes and muted tunic dresses accessorised with bathing caps like nubile petals – reflected the spirit of a libertarian age. The influence of Coco Chanel’s designs in her penultimate production for Russes are echoed today in Chanel’s 2010 Resort collection.

Le Train Bleu takes place amidst the French Riviera circa 1920s, an era where populist visions of a modernist utopia gave rise to the cult of the body beautiful. Choreographer Bronislava Nijinska satirised this shift towards shallower lifestyles using Chanel’s sporting ensembles as a fashion conduit. Indeed legend has it that Coco was credited with making suntans fashionable in Europe, following a run-in with the sun while yachting on the Riviera.

Le Train was a definitively Russes collaboration, with Jean Cocteau as librettist and Pablo Picasso fulfilling the rather specific role of curtain painter. Jean Cocteau envisaged the ballet as a series of vignettes filled with all the things you might see on the front of a postcard sent from France circa 1924  (jets falling out of the sky, maillots, chorus lines, movie cameras). When I think of Le Train Bleu I imagine rosy women and men with shoulders like boulders racing seaside together, trying to catch the first wave of salacious gossip as it crashes and breaks onto the shore…

In 2009 Karl Lagerfield kept the Ballet-Fashion dream alive by designing the costume for English National Ballet’s Elena Glurdjidze’s performance of The Dying Swan.

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26 November 2009

Comment of the month – juicy ballet prizes up for grabs!


At Behind Ballet we love comments. We LOVE comments. So we’ve decided to award a juicy ballet prize to the best reader comment on the blog every month.

This time around we’re giving away a copy of our 2010 calendar, à la mode: ballet & fashion (reckoned by The Sydney Morning Herald  “the world’s most beautiful calendar … a celebration of sexy bodies and sumptuous couture”) along with a box set of postcards from Graeme Murphy’s Swan Lake. You don’t have to do anything to enter except jump onto Behind Ballet and have your say. It doesn’t matter if you’re commenting on an old or a new post, we’d love to hear from you. We’ll select the best for December just before Christmas and contact the lucky winner. Happy posting!

Image: Daniel Gaudiello, Amber Scott, Lana Jones and Kevin Jackson from à. la mode: ballet & fashion. Photography Justin Smith

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25 November 2009

Flashback: 1962


The Australian Ballet recently unearthed a series of photographs taken in its very first year of existence, 1962. The black and white images abound with youth and promise, not just of the dancers but the young company too. This snap of Leonie Leahy perched outside The Australian Ballet’s first home in East Melbourne, a disused ladies college, recalls the easy grace of Audrey Hepburn in Roman Holiday. Hepburn, who trained as a dancer, was instrumental in popularising the ballet flat, and owned hundreds of pairs of the slipper named in her honour by Italian label Salvatore Ferragamo. Over 50 years since the ‘Audrey’ first debuted, ballet flats remain hugely popular amongst the sartorially discerning, inflicting none of the tortures of high heels – or pointe shoes.

Image & text from The Australian Ballet’s 2010 calendar, à la mode: ballet & fashion, now available from The Australian Ballet Shop

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18 November 2009

“The most daring, absurd thing ever”: Lady Gaga and the Bolshoi Ballet

Lady Gaga has been called a “foul-mouthed, pants allergic, electro-loving pop princess” by the lads’ magazine Maxim. She’s also been called “one of the Nijinskys of our epoch” by Milanese artist Francesco Vezzoli. Both these descriptions seemed apt when she performed with the Bolshoi Ballet last Saturday.

Francesco Vezzoli masterminded the benefit event for the 30th anniversary of Los Angeles’ Museum of Contemporary Art. His art has always shown an obsession with fame. His back catalogue, for example, includes a star-studded advertisement for an entirely fictional perfume called ‘Greed’. And, like fame, the MOCA event itself was fleeting – he subtitled the performance as “The Shortest Musical You Will Never See Again”.

While photographs bear witness to the night’s share of celebrities, it was more than just a paparazzo’s dream. If Gaga is to be Nijinsky, then Vezzoli is happy to play Diaghilev. “Diaghilev has always been a big hero of mine,” he recently told The Daily Beast. Hence his famous collaborators, drawn from different artistic spheres, took their creative lead from the tradition of the Ballets Russes.

The spirit of the Ballets Russes is evident in every aspect of Lady Gaga’s onstage appearance. Her blue lipsticked pout matched the butterflies added to her piano by enfant terrible of the British art world, Damien Hirst. Her headdress was designed by architect Frank Gehry; the evening’s masks by Australian director Baz Luhrmann and his wife Catherine Martin. Even Gaga’s chosen ballad for the event provided an artistic cameo, with lyrics describing her lover’s “James Dean glossy eyes”.

The Bolshoi dancers, dressed by Prada and Vezzoli, joined Gaga on a raised catwalk. The limited width of this fashion-inspired stage obviously restricted their field of motion. As they swayed and pirouetted, they were reminiscent of the tiny dancers inside a music box, moving sometimes with a mechanical ticking, sometimes with a fluid grace.

Lady Gaga has always been determined her performances be considered performance art. She’s fond of quoting Andy Warhol, saying that art should be meaningful in the most shallow way possible. And like Warhol, she’s impossible to pin down: declaring high art credibility one moment, and winking that she makes “soulless electronic pop” the next. After her performance, she told the Wall Street Journal that “art is life, life is art – the question is what came first?” High art; popular culture; it’s all the same to her. And to her partner in crime, too. Franceso Vezzoli said that he wished to combine Lady Gaga and the Bolshoi Ballet as it was “the most daring, absurd thing ever.”

Absurd? Perhaps – but so was 32 flavours of Campbell Soup hanging on a gallery wall.

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25 September 2009

Studio style

Sylvie Guillem, prima ballerina, takes her ballet class in a full-length black raincoat. Or at least she did the day I had a cheeky peek through the Royal Opera House studio windows in London’s Covent Garden. As a well groomed ballet student of barely 16, fragile torso neatly encased in a baby blue leotard, I was baffled. After asking one of the more worldly senior students, I was told that this was her signature ‘look’. Just one of her eccentricities that give her that undeniable mystique. The thick cotton and polyester masked those dangerous legs, her messy hair fell loosely around her delicate face. With every tendu, out would shoot a ragged leg warmer. With every develope a sinewy leg slid from the folds of the fabric. On this day, my concept of the ‘ballerina’ was somewhat shattered. Sylvie was not the glamazon I had expected.

When I’m asked what I do for a living and reply ‘I’m a ballet dancer’, the reaction is usually one of doe-eyed admiration. People begin to wax lyrical about how glamorous it must be. Perhaps their brains conjure up images of delicate girls with their hair in chignons and perfect pairs of shiny ballet slippers. It’s no wonder most people we meet get a shock when all of us aren’t angelic and softly spoken, but mature and career driven, and with their eye on the sartorial pulse. The ties between fashion and the theatre have been going on for over a hundred years. As the 1903 magazine Dry Goods Economist wrote: “Does not the sight of the dainty show girl instill in the women of every city and town the desire to be as well dressed and bewitching as her sister on the other side of the footlights?” . The iconic Degas paintings of young girls in ballet class wearing frothy white skirts neatly tied around the waist with a big blue sash have been impressed into society, therefore prompting the public to believe that ballet is terribly old fashioned. Place one of The Australian Ballet’s sculpted bodies next to one of Degas’ voluptuous portrayals of a ballet dancer and it is clear why the evolution towards skin tight, breathable fabrics has happened. Read the rest of this entry »

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14 September 2009

The unbearable lightness of being

As The Australian Ballet prepares to launch its 2010 season, we look back on 2009 and the images that defined our year. The 2009 ‘Elevation’ photo shoot was a collaboration between 3 Deep Design, photographer Tim Richardson, fashion designer Toni Maticevski and of course the dancers, who were superimposed over seas, skies, dissolving sunrises and mountainous peaks. We chatted to Tim, Toni and 3 Deep’s David Roennfeldt about capturing art in motion.

Did you know very much about ballet before you shot the company?
Tim Richardson: I had photographed The Australian Ballet’s Romeo and Juliet a few years back and had also known the 3 Deep guys for a while (since college). Dance in all its forms has always interested me. The discipline of the dancers – their ability to control their physiques – has always inspired me.

Toni Maticevski: I love the ballet. I have been to many performances. I don’t know too much about certain stories but have been learning more about the technique all the time.

David Roennfeldt: We had been working within the contemporary dance arena for four years prior to establishing the relationship with The Australian Ballet. We really immersed ourselves into the culture of the dance landscape at that time which no doubt informed us about the landscape of dance within Australia. Our experience with The Australian Ballet over the past six years has meant that our understanding of ballet as an art form has expanded considerably and we are constantly learning, researching and experiencing ballet. Read the rest of this entry »

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