When George Balanchine was a child he would cry, “Mama, Mama, caviar, caviar!” But Russian caviar cost ten rubles a pound so poor George had to wait. Tanaquil Le Clercq, Balanchine’s former wife, remembers his favourite snack: the caviar sandwich. Take one-half of an untoasted Thomas’ English Muffin, cover it generously with sweet butter, say about a quarter of an inch, spread a layer of excellent black caviar over the butter, at least one inch thick, and cover with the other half of the muffin. “If you can’t afford lots of caviar,” he said, “better to forget the whole thing.”
Sir Frederick Ashton would often meet with Balanchine and Le Clercq in New York and share good food and fond stories. Tanaquil recorded Ashton’s favourite recipes, which varied from New York-style vichysoisse, to avocado and walnut sandwiches. Apparently he could have been famous for his beefsteak pudding if it had not been for ballet. To Sir Fred, choreography and cooking require a similar technical aesthetic. “A good ballet is only a good ballet,” he said, “when all the ingredients are right and, like a cake, unless there is enough baking powder it doesn’t rise.”
The Ballet Cook Book, 1966
By Tanaquil Le Clerq
Has anyone tasted a mouthful of Balanchine’s salty concoction? What’s the verdict?
The muffin pictured was consumed with gusto shortly after we shot the photo … and then the publications team enjoyed caviar muffins for the next two days. It’s delicious; utterly delicious. If you like caviar, of course.